Shea Butter originates from the seed of the Shea
Tree. No chemicals or preservatives are used in the making of shea butter
and the highest quality shea butter is prepared with a cold press. Because
shea butter originates from a seed, it is considered a seed oil. Seed
oils have two important characteristics. Firstly, seed oils have a saponifiable
fraction, which contains the moisturizing agents. Secondly, seed oils
have a nonsaponifiable fraction, which contains the healing agents. Shea
Butter has been known to contain anywhere from 5% to 17% of a healing
fraction. Other seed oils often contain a healing fraction of 1% and less.
It is because of these unique healing properties that the shea tree is
also called the Karite Tree, meaning Tree of Life in Wolof (an indigenous
language of Senegal).
Natural, unrefined, Shea Butter is full of Vitamins
A and E, which may explain why shea is an excellent moisturizer and healing
agent. The Vitamin A in shea helps to alleviate blemishes, wrinkles, eczema,
and dermatitis. Shea has also been shown to treat skin allergies, insect
bites, sunburns, frostbite, and a variety of other skin ailments. Shea
Butter may also accelerate the rate of wound healing. Shea is such a versatile
moisturizer for the skin because the natural moisturizers in Shea Butter
are the very same moisturizers produced by the sebaceous glands in the
skin. Vitamin E has been known to increase the micro-circulation to the
skin, resulting in a more effective flow of blood to and from the skin.
Not all Shea Butter can have such beneficial effects on the skin. These
benefits vary on the quality of the butter.
Shea Butter has been known to age and lose its natural
integrity. Shea Butter becomes less effective as it ages due to a lack
of bound Cinnamic Acid, the ingredient which allows shea to be an effective
healing agent. Although shea with unbound Cinnamic Acid is less effective
as a healing agent, it does retain its moisturizing benefits. The preparation
and the environmental conditions after preparation can also alter the
quality of the butter. Aging and loss of integrity make the difference
between a poor quality shea butter and a high quality shea butter. A truly
good butter will be both effective as a moisturizer and a healing agent,
whereas poor quality shea butter is only good for moisturizing.
Shea Butter has been researched by physicians and
classified into four different groups; Class A, Class B, Class C, and
Class F. Class (or grade) A is premium Shea Butter, most effective for
both moisturizing and healing. Class F is the lowest quality Shea Butter,
recommended only as a moisturizer and has no healing properties. To confirm
that a shea butter has been tested and certified as a Class A shea, look
for the American Shea Butter Institute Seal. The Institute Seal also certifies
that no fillers, chemicals, or preservatives have been used in the Shea
Butter; as all of the aforementioned often alter the natural integrity
of the Shea Butter. Aging and excessive heating may alter the integrity
shea butter.
Be very cautious about the purchase of the
following:
1) Foul or Extremely Pungent Shea. Indicate of being spoiled or excessive
heating.
2) White (bleached) Shea. (Grade F) Like sugar or flower, bleaching strips
shea of its nutrients.
3) Hard Shea. Solidification makes all butters harder in cold temperatures.
However, if shea is rock hard at room temperature (70° F) something
went wrong in processing.
4) Gritty Shea. Again, complications in processing.
5) Discoloration and/or black residue. This could be unhealthy pathogens,
like mold. Shea is naturally cream or light yellow in color.
6) Debris. You wouldn’t eat a piece of fruit with out washing it would
you? Shea should not have sticks and/or creatures in it.